The local tour guides in Yan'an (Yenan) China, who know absolutely nothing of the history. An American visitor who lived there in the 1940's revisits Yenan. He is stunned by the changes. Th makeover by the tourism bureau has changed the place that was the centre of the Communist struggle with the Koumintang and the Japanese. Mao, Zhou-en-lai and others made this the central location for their struggle for China after their Long March and well into 1948. It says Rittenberg was a place of stark beauty, with its primitive cave city. He sees the commercial makeover as having destroyed this museum to Chinese revolutionary history.